A visitor and his guide in Delhi ignore the tourist's taboo against street food to snack on dosa, uttapam and KFC's

一位访客及他的向导在德里无视了游客对路边摊小吃卷饼、薄煎饼和肯德基的禁忌。

Finding good street food in Delhi, India

(编注:原文配图)

DELHI, INDIA — Delhi, India, is closed today.

德里,印度——德里,印度,今天关闭了。

My guide, a solemn man named C.K. Gupta, is deeply apologetic. It is, he informs me, not a holiday, but a peaceful protest. "Too high prices in the shops." It is 2010, and I am in Delhi on vacation. It is my first time here.

我的向导是一个叫C.K.Gupta的严肃男人,他对此深表歉意。他告诉我这不是个假日,而是和平抗议。“商店里的价格太高。”现在是2010年,我在德里度假。这是我第一次来到这里。


But when we leave my rented car near the Defence Colony, it is impossible to move. Trying to walk, I am blocked by the backs of shirts and jackets and saris. An undertow that I do not understand is keeping me in place.

但是当我们在国防区附近下车时,简直无法移动。试图行走的我被各种穿着衬衫夹克和纱丽的人堵在那里。一种我不明白的逆流将我留在了那儿。

My guide tugs me into a doorway. I am panting. Sweating. "What," I ask, "is going on?"

我的向导将我拖进了一个门廊。我在狂喘。大出汗。“什么情况?”我问。

"Crowded," explains Gupta.

“拥挤的人群,”Gupta解释道。

I can see that, I say. "But you said Delhi was closed."

我知道,我说。“但你说德里今天关闭了。”


Gupta has me climb the stairs to a restaurant. South Indian Eating Paradise, says the sign. It so happens that Delhi is in northern India. But, for Gupta, this is not a problem.

Gupta带我爬上了一家餐馆的楼梯。标牌上写着“南印度吃货天堂”。可是德里是在印度北部啊。而这对Gupta来说没什么问题。

Our early lunch turns out not to be as filling as I'd thought. "Listen," I say. "I hate to admit this, but I'm still a little hungry."

结果我们的早午餐不是像我想的那样能填饱肚子。“听着,”我说。“虽然我不想承认,但是我还是有点饿。”

Gupta examines me.

Gupta审视了我一下。


"I do not need any help," I had announced. "Ah," replied Gupta, watching, watching. "Ah." He then unfurled his map.

“我不需要任何帮助,”我当时宣布。“啊,”Gupta回答,看着我,一直看着我。“啊。”然后他打开了他的地图。

"How about a snack outside?" I suggest. "You could find a vendor. Same south Indian food, let's say, but simpler."

“出去吃个小吃怎么样?”我建议道。“你可以去找个小贩。还要这样的南印度食物,呃,但是更简单一点。”

"Tourists do not try this," he says. "Even at a clean place, well, I cannot risk it."

“游客不吃这个的,”他说。“即使是个干净地方,我也不能冒这个险。”

The risk is mine, I say. Let's go.

出了事算我的,我说。走吧。

Street food here, I have read, is a regional thing. Stalls in Delhi and Mumbai will have different techniques and tastes. A few years back, in 2007, there was a push to enforce new sanitation standards and set up "vending zones" with electricity and running water.

我曾经读到过,路边摊是个地域事物。德里和孟买的食阁会有不同的技术和口味。几年前的2007年,曾经强制推行过新卫生标准,并建立有电和自来水的“贩卖区”。

But, despite attempts at regulation, this is India. There are makeshift stands wherever you turn. The street-sellers sell on.

但是,尽管试图建立这些规则,但这是印度啊。不管你去哪儿都能看见临时摊位。路边摊主们使你相信这一点。


Fine, I say. All fine.

好,我说。都很好。

I park the car at the edge of Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk neighborhood. We take a ride on a bicycle rickshaw for a while (it's welded to the back of an Indian-made Hero-brand bike) and then we get out and try to walk. Streets are miniature and twisted.

我把车停在旧德里的月光集市附近的边缘。我们坐上一部人力自行车(焊接在印度国产英雄牌自行车的后面)转了会,然后我们下来准备准备着溜达溜达。街道很小,七曲八折的。

After a while, he finds a courtyard — it's partly a driveway for some bikes — that has folding chairs. A card table is topped with a plastic, patterned cover. There is a man with a beard, metal pans and a portable stove.

过了一会,他发现了一块地方——其实就是自行车道的一部分——这有折叠椅,还有一个表面是塑料的上面有图案的卡桌。有个长着胡子的爷们在这,还有金属锅和便携炉灶。

"Here, you can get more than bite-sized," says Gupta, ordering a masala dosa. For me, he sexts the same regional dish I'd tried at the restaurant: uttapam with tomato and onion.

Gupta说:“这更实惠点”,点了一份 masala dosa。对我来说,他选的这个地方食物: 番茄和洋葱的做的煎薄饼,我更想在饭店吃.

Uttapam, I say. "Sounds like a prescxtion."

Uttapam(译注:薄饼)——我说,“听起来像是一个药方。”

"Probably no one gets sick here," assures Gupta.

“没有人因为这个生病,”Gupta保证道

But when our snack is delivered, I realize I am in a different Delhi. The food is served on metal plates, and each of the platters — including chutneys in cups — costs less than 80 rupees, about $1.50. Prices may be high in the stores, but not here.

但当我们的小吃点好后,我发现我身处一个不一样的德里。食物是装在金属盘子里的,每盘——包括杯子里的酸辣酱——都花不到80卢比,大概1.5美元。商店里的价格也许会高,但这里不会。

My uttapam looks the same as it did at lunch: a cross between a pita and pancake. Its toppings seem to be trapped inside. Gupta pours on Day-Glo green and orange relishes without checking first. "Hey," I say.

我的印度薄煎饼看上去跟午餐吃得一样:介于皮塔饼和煎饼之间。它的浇头看上去是裹在里面的。Gupta没有检查就把那些红红绿绿的佐料倒了上去。“嘿,”我说。



Uttapam tastes like the world's purest pizza. After I'm done, I try a bite of Gupta's masala dosa. It's scrolled up like a crepe. Biting into its quick-fried outer pancake, I get a surprise: a molten core of lentils.

印度薄煎饼尝着像世上最纯粹的披萨。我吃完了以后,又咬了一口Gupta的咖喱土豆卷饼。它就像一个可丽饼那样卷着。咬开它那油爆过的外皮,我有了个惊喜:里面都是绵热的小扁豆。

I wave my fork at Gupta. It is missing a prong. Gupta waves his back.

我向Gupta挥动着我的叉子。它缺了个尖头。Gupta也挥了挥他的。

His eyes are following my progress. I add a dab of relish myself — a pink one that makes my food look almost preppy, mixed with the green.

他的眼睛一直盯着我的动作。我自己又加了少许佐料——一种粉色的小菜,混着绿色,让我的食物看上去花花绿绿的。

"Now," says Gupta, motioning that I should finish. We move on.

“现在”,Gupta示意我应该走了,我们继续前进。

In front of us is an ocean. It's rolling, bobbing, rippling with people. There are islands of stalls. "Tea and coffee selling," explains Gupta.

在我们前面是人潮涌动。一些摊位像人海里的群岛。Gupta解释说,那是出售茶和咖啡的。

I can see that, I say.

我说,我能看见。


My cup of Tamil coffee is like liquefied candy with caffeine. "These beans get roasted," Gupta announces. "They are powdered. You use only hot milk!"

我那杯泰米尔咖啡看起来像加了咖啡因的液态汤锅。“这些豆子烘烤过,”Gupta声明,“它们被打成粉。只加上热牛奶。”

I promise, I say.

“好的,我喝”我说。

Something at the bottom of his cup gives Gupta an idea. "Enough," he says. "We go now. Time for different tastes."

杯子底部的什么东西给了Gupta一个灵感。“够了,”他说。“我们走吧。该尝尝不一样的东西了。”

We are back to New Delhi, moving on more modern sidewalks, and I am struggling to keep up. Gupta pushes open a door. It's aMcDonald's. "No," I say. I glance at the menu. A Veggie, Coke and Fries for 180 rupees. A Maharajah Mac.

我们回到了新德里,向着更现代的街道走去,我努力跟上脚步。Gupta推开了一扇门。是麦当劳。“不,”我说。我看了一下菜单。一个素汉堡、可乐和薯条套餐是180卢比。套餐叫“麦当劳大君”。

I turn and leave. Now it is Gupta chasing. "Let us try it," he says.

我转身要离开。Gupta追了上来。“我们试试这个,”他说。

No, I repeat. This is India.

不,我重申道。这可是印度。

But we get caught in a pedestrian eddy that is swirling us toward a group of stores. Gupta is pointing. A red and yellow restaurant: one-half Pizza Hut, one- half KFC.

但我们陷入了一股人流中,把我们卷向了一排商店。Gupta指着一个红色和黄色的餐馆:一班是必胜客,一半是肯德基。

I start to protest. Too late. My guide is focused, narrowing his eyes.

我开始抗议。但太晚了。我的向导很专注地眯起了他的眼睛。

KFC-India's MasterMeal attracts his gaze. Its picture shows a pair of chicken legs, an unidentified disk and a serving of cheese. Gupta decides on a 195- rupee (about $3.60) Zing Kong Box instead.

印度肯德基的主餐吸引了他的目光。图片上面是一对鸡腿,一个不确定是什么的盘子和一些乳酪。然而Gupta点了个195卢比(大概3.6美元)的金刚盒套餐。


The KFC is spicy. It's not like home at all. For the first time today, I am feeling slightly queasy.

肯德基很辣。一点也不像美国家里的那样。我今天第一次感到有些恶心。

OK, I say. Time for some pizza. I pick a Pizza Hut-India Teekha Veggie (99 rupees, about $1.85) that's topped with chiles, marinated tomatoes, capsicum, cheese, onion, red paprika, paneer — a type of curd cheese — and baby corn.

好吧,我说。该吃点披萨了。我点了个印度必胜客Teekha素披萨(99卢比,大于1.85美元),上面是辣椒、腌番茄、洋葱、芝士、甜椒、红辣椒粉、印度奶酪——一种干奶酪——和小玉米。

Gupta and I dig into the seven-inch pie. It's not as fresh as my uttapam with tomato onion. But it's got a kick I like. Maybe it's the red paprika. Or the peppery corn.

我和Gupta切开了这个七寸的披萨。它没有我那个带番茄洋葱的薄煎饼新鲜。但是有我喜欢的味道。可能是那个红辣椒粉。或许是胡椒味的玉米。

"Need some ketchup?" asks Gupta. He saturates his slice with Heinz.

“需要番茄酱吗?”Gupta问。他在他那片上抹满了亨氏番茄酱。

I am laughing at this, but Gupta is happily chewing. He rolls his pizza up like dosa. He pores over the plastic menu and suddenly points. Pizza Hut-India has Chocolate Truffle Cake With Cottage Cheese.

我笑了,但是Gupta很幸福地咀嚼着。他把他的披萨像卷饼一样卷起来。他重读着那个塑料菜单,突然指着一个。印度必胜客巧克力松露蛋糕和茅屋芝士。

I am getting full. But this sounds worth a try.

我饱了。但这个听上去值得一试。

Shall we split one? I say.

我们能分着吃一个吗?我说

Gupta stares. His eyes are like perfect lentils. His mouth is in an upswing. There is the start of a definite curl.

Gupta凝视着我。他的眼睛就像完美的小扁豆。他的嘴角在上扬。这将是一个明朗的答案。

Delhi may be closed for the day. But C.K. Gupta is smiling.

德里在这一天关闭了。但C.K.Gupta却在微笑。

We are in northern India, and it is time for dessert.

我们在北印度,现在是甜点时间。

So far on my India trip, I have been splurging. The deals are good. My hotel, the Leela Kempinski Gurgaon, has a name that's hard to say. But it's enormous and shiny, with on-site restaurants that are like horns of plenty spilling meats and fruits and cheeses from around the world.

我的印度之行到目前为止,我一直在大肆挥霍。这些交易都不错。我的旅馆, the Leela Kempinski Gurgaon,有一个很难说出来的名字。但它宽敞亮堂,还有个现场制作的餐厅供应来自世界各地的大量肉类,水果和奶酪。